Honda NT650 "Deauville" - Side Fairings removal

This page shows you how to remove the side fairing bodywork panels from your Deauville motorcycle. This is not a maintenance job in itself, but a component part of other tasks such as a tappets check at 8,000 or 12,000 mile service intervals. Also, balancing the carburettors requires the fairing sides to be removed.

Skill : 2. Tools : 1. Personally dirty : 1. Work mess : 1. Space : 2. Time : expert 30 minutes, average 45 minutes, "first-time" 60 minutes.

Skill levels explained. Return to the Deauville Web Resource

All nut and bolt sizes are given for the spanner size required to fit them.

Tools : hex head screwdriver, 5mm allen key, 10mm socket, extension bar and ratchet.

This page refers to a UK specification NT650V4 Deauville and I can't speak for what differences there might be on other variants. I welcome amplification of any differences from fellow owners - by all means contact me with a view to providing comparable photos, which I'll credit accordingly.

All the tools, hands, and bike in the pictures are the author's. I am very receptive to comments and suggestions, but you use these pages entirely at your own risk. I recommend wearing surgical gloves when working with oils and other fluids, or just to help keep your hands clean.

The main reason why you would want to remove the side fairings is to do an 8,000 or 12,000 mile service which means checking the valve clearances or tappets, or to replace one of the exhaust pipe headers.

Park the bike on a firm surface and turn off the ignition and fuel. Remove the saddle as per the start of the pannier lid change page.

the Red Fox says : "A good place for nuts, bolts and fasteners to be kept is the tool tray under the tail cone."

Remove the right hand dashboard trim as per the headlight change page.

Now remove the left hand dashboard trim. Like with the right hand dash panel, there is an upper fastener too at the rearmost edge of the upper fairing. Don't lose the dome nut from the underside of this upper bolt.

If you wish to replace these bodywork bolts, the part number is "Screw, special 6mm : 90106KCZ000" at £2.25 each (March 2016) from David Silver.

Remove all the fasteners in the following photos

Right hand upper.
Right hand by the exhaust pipe.
Inside the right hand (lockable) fairing pocket.
Under the right hand engine protector.
Just inside the edging of the right hand pocket.

Upper right hand just above the air intake. Note the aftermarket LED indicator repeaters I have fitted.

Mid left hand side inside the air scoop.

Left hand middle by the radiator hose.

Left hand upper by the fairing pocket.

Inside the left hand fairing pocket.

Middle left hand side just above the air intake.

Left hand engine protector.
At the front of the tank, remove the 10mm dome nuts and lift the tank up to release the mounting bracket for the fairing - there are two of these mounts, one on each tank stud, each one securing one half of the side fairing.
Ditto the opposite side. Don't lose the washers or dome nuts.
Unscrew the fasteners under both sides of the chin pieces.
Then remove the plastic tabs from underside of the chin fairing by pulling the head of each pin outwards to release the lock and then pulling away the entire body of the tab.
Right hand under-chin tabs are removed too.
Now ease away the chin pieces. The left hand one won't come right off as the speedometer cable passes through it, so just lower it down to ground level.

Once all the fasteners are removed, each side of the bodywork pulls off from its rubber stops. Neither panel is heavy, just an awkward shape. To avoid snapping off one of the plastic mounting tabs, support the rear of the body panel as you pull it away from the chassis.

the Red Fox says : "Don't force removal - if the fairing won't come away, you have probably missed removing a fastener. If you break off a tab, this can usually be repaired with superglue."


When the faiing sides are off it's a good opportunity to balance the carburetttors.

The End Result

Before refitting the side fairings, replace the air filter and its box, and then replace and connect the fuel tank.

Replacing the fairing sides is not a technically complicated job, but take care not to damage the paintwork whilst you are manoeuvring the body parts into place. I suggest that you attach each side quite loosely and make sure than everything is lined up before tightening the bolts and screws and replacing the plastic tabs.

I found it best to replace the chin pieces first and then offer up each side fairing in turn. The inner face of each pocket locates into corresponding tabs at the top of the chin pieces. One point of caution - beware scratching the upper fairing's paintwork with the u-brackets at the front of the fairing sides, as you ease them into place. A second pair of hands would pay dividends at this stage to ensure that the side pieces slot into place accurately without any twisting or forcing.

Before pushing the under-chin tabs in, first pull the head or pin fully out. The push the tab through the mounting hole until the body of the tab is fully home. Then tap in the head to secure the tab in position.

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