Honda NT650 "Deauville" - Headlight bulb replace

This page shows you how to remove and replace the headlight bulb on your Deauville motorcycle.

Skill : 2. Tools : 1. Personally dirty : 1. Work mess : 1. Space : 1. Time : expert 30 minutes, average 45 minutes, "first-time" an hour.

Skill levels explained. Return to the Deauville Web Resource

All nut and bolt sizes are given for the spanner size required to fit them.

Tools : 5mm hex (Allen) key; crosshead screwdriver; replacement bulb.

This page refers to a UK specification NT650V4 Deauville and I can't speak for what differences there might be on other variants. I welcome amplification of any points from non-UK owners - by all means contact me with a view to providing comparable photos, which I'll credit accordingly.

the Red Fox says, sadly : "After some time of use I have to add that the front headlight on the 650 Deauville is dreadful and nothing you stick in the bulb holder can improve this. The problem isn't the wattage of the bulb - it's the badly designed reflector, which scatters its light over far too wide an area. Compared to the marvellous headlight on the 1981 CX500, the Deau's forward illumination is pathetic and not good enough for safe night riding on unlit roads."

Also, as I don't ride in daylight with the headlight on, I've since fitted an illuminated off switch to the dipped beam circuit. This doesn't affect either the sidelights which are always on, or the highbeam / flasher.

The Deauville in UK guise comes equipped with a 55/60 watt headlight which just about staggers over the leading edge of the front mudguard and empties itself a few yards up the road. You can obtain a slight improvement by fitting a 100 watt bulb such as the Xenon Ice White/Blue 100w. The electrical system is perfectly capable of handling this.

I obtained mine from eBay because I couldn't buy 100 watt H4 bulbs from any garage I visited. A pair cost me about £10 including postage. 100w bulbs are technically illegal for road use but I very much doubt that an MoT tester would notice. I am told that Halfords sell them, but when I asked at my local store in Telford I was told that they didn't stock any.

Park the bike on a secure flat surface and turn off the ignition. Unlock and remove the right hand glove pocket lid.

Use your crosshead screwdriver to remove the two fasteners at the bottom end of the lid.

Use your 5mm Allen key to remove the top coach bolt holding the right hand dashboard cover to the fairing, just above the mirror.

As you undo this bolt, hold your other hand underneath the corresponding hole inside the fairing, as there is a small dome nut which will drop out and you don't really want to lose it!


There is another coach bolt on the rear face of the dashboard cover, this just unscrews.

The dashboard cover is now only held on with rubber stops, gently prise it off and lift it away. It's reasonably flexible (more so than the rigid side panels) but take care not to pull it hard and break off one of the rubber grips.

This is the general view inside the cavity between the rear of the headlight body and the front of the instrumentation console. There's just enough room to get your hand in and change the bulb.

Reach in and grab the three-colour connector block which is a push fit on the rear of the headlight bulb. Here you can see that there is a circular rubber "concertina" which stops water and dirt from entering the headlight shell.

Pull the connector block off straight backwards - it's the one with the green, white and blue wires. If it's stiff, jiggle it to and fro to ease it away. Then peel off and pull away the concertina, this is a simple push fit on the headlight shell.

The bulb itself is secured in place with a thin steel clip which you will be able to see once the concertina is removed. This clip is released by using a fingertip to press it forwards and then upwards. It will then pivot to the left, and you will be able to grip the bulb's rear body and pull it right out if the headlight shell.

Here you see the front view the old bulb inserted into the concertina.
And this is the rear view. Note the rubber tab is at the bottom, with the three contact "prongs" at 9, 12 and 3 o'clock.

When you handle a headlight bulb, do not touch the glass surface with your fingers, as acid on your skin will cause premature failure of the bulb. Keep the protective wrapping on the bulb until you are ready to fit it, and be extra cautious with your hands.


The new bulb has metal tangs which ensure that it only fits one way, so you can't get this wrong! Taking care not to touch the new bulb's glass, insert it into the rear of the headlight shell so that the orientation is as per the photo opposite.

Remember that this is UK specification bike. Non-UK variants may be different.

Re-tension the spring clip across the rear of the bulb, slip the rubber concertina over the body and push the connector block back on. Now turn on the ignition and check that the headlight high and low beams are working. Also test the passing light or headlight flasher button, and that the dashboard high beam light comes on with the high beam.

If you need to adjust the height or throw of your headlight beam, you can do so now - you use the two knurled wheels to adjust how the beam is aimed. The wheels aren't shown in these photos but they are very obvious when you look inside the headlight bulb space.

Replace the dashboard cover and you're done. I recommend that you store a spare H4, stop/tail and sidelight bulb in the lockable map pocket, or in your tail cone. A plastic drinks bottle with the upper part cut away makes a rigid container, and you can wrap the spare bulbs in kitchen paper to keep them clean. Tape up the bottle's open end with packing or insulating tape. I use a flip-top plastic tub - actually a redundant paintball ammunition magazine!

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