Honda Deauville : Tips and Tricks

(or, the Red Fox's Fountain of Wisdom)


This will be where I collect and invite your tips and tricks on owning, riding, servicing, insuring, and generally being involved with the Honda Deauville and its variants - including the 700. If you have a piece of advice which doesn't readily fit into any of the existing 'DiY Servicing' web pages, this is the place for it. For ease of use I've divided the page up into Haynes-like sections.

Example : "I found that the doofer from a ZigZag 750 fits the Deauville."

or "Always twiddle the thingummy clockwise before you bolt the whatsit to it."

You can submit your Wisdom to me using this email address - please manually remove the extra 'z'. I'll credit all the submissions I use to the donor.

Return to the Red Fox Servicing main pages


Engine, clutch and transmission

On the 700 Deauville, some aftermarket oil filters are too long and are punctured by the centre stand as it retracts. Always use Honda OEM spares, especially oil filters.


Carburettors

Good Wiki page here on dismantling a cleaning carburettors- use my pages for details on tank and airbox removal.


Cooling

Mark Wain says (May 6th 2016) "Mght be worth noting that on the 650 range which ran 98-03, the water pumps aren't interchangeable from 98/99 to 2001-2002 not sure about 2000. The shaft that slides into the engine is marginally thinner. Honda put a lip on the inner engine casing for a better seal in 2001/2 due to the pumps leaking, I know this because I tried to put my '99 pump on a 2001/2 engine and sourcing the right pump was a nightmare."


Fuel System

Chris Bruce advises (May 6th 2016) that there are alternatives for the Deauville fuel pump, all of which are Honda parts priced at under £30:-

VFR750 part number is 181909112155

CB400 part number is 311586726497

XL1000 part number is 151983432309


Ignition

On Deauville models apart from the early V1 variant, the ignition system to operate relies on a chip embedded in the key's black plastic body. If this chip is not detected when the ignition key is inserted, the steering will unlock but the engine won't start. A new correctly chipped key can be bought - or even programmed yourself - but there is an easier way to get your bike going if your original key has broken.

Just buy a new blank key and have it cut to match the broken one, then add the old key's plastic body to your key ring. Insert the unchipped key as normal and the detector will still be triggered by the old key's body. Simplissimo!

However a spare 'real' chipped key is always a good idea.


Frame, suspension, final drive


Brakes, wheels, tyres


Bodywork and fairings

If you've lost the black metal u-bracket into which the fairing securing screws locate just aft of the glove boxes, you'll find that the black push-pin type clips securing the underside of the 'chin' fairing panel will do the same job and are dead easy to pop in. These are the same as the heat shield studs, part number 91549-MW-0790ZA at £1.80 each from David Silver. A couple of spare ones in your tailcone are a good idea, just in case your chin fairing comes adrift.


Electrickery


Non-mechanical (owning, insuring, riding)